October 23, 2017

Finding My Green Thumb I Beginning Vegetable Gardening

I met Melanie Bremner at an Internet Marketing event in Atlanta Georgia a few years ago.  She comes from a family of lady marketers who each run their own businesses from home and I had the pleasure of meeting 3 generations of them.  Since that time, Melanie and I have gotten to know each other better by following each other on Facebook.  I’ve enjoyed seeing what she’s up to with her business and for that matter I’ve always enjoy her personal posts as well.  That being said, my ears really perked up when she started talking about beginning vegetable gardening and Melanie graciously accepted my request to provide a guest post for my gardening friends who perhaps feel the same way she did in feeling like she just didn’t have a green thumb!

Thank you @Melanie for taking the time to share with my readers. 🙂

Leigha

 

 

MB Aug Garden

When I first decided that I would try my hand again at growing a vegetable garden, I didn’t have much faith in my abilities.  My beginning vegetable gardens had both been flops and I had pretty much determined that I didn’t have a green thumb in any sense. But, my family loves tomatoes and green peppers and knowing how these vegetables can become quite expensive, I set out to conquer this gardening challenge and reap some benefits.

So, what did I do?

  • I researched the proper time to grow these vegetables
  • How far apart to place the plants
  • Where the best location was where they would get just the right amount of sun and shade
  • The best soils and manure to use to aid them in their growth
  • And how often they should be watered

My darling hubby dug up the dirt in the old flower bed in front of our house and then we spent $60 on two different soils, some sheep manure, and some mulch. This combination of ingredients worked so well that we only had to pull out two or three weeds the whole time and sometimes when I forgot to water them, the mulch did an excellent job of retaining some of the moisture so the plants did not suffer any.

It has now been roughly two months or so since our plants have grown and the numbers are climbing. At last count we had 100 vine tomatoes, 6 green peppers and 10 little cherry tomatoes (these were planted weeks after the other ones so are slow to come to fruition).

The green pepper plants I believe could have done much better if they had not been placed in between two of our tomato plants since they ended up being dwarfed and cut off from the sun. But once again, this is a lesson learned.

Next year, I would like to try growing some cucumbers and green beans. It would be nice even if we could get some fruit out of the deal too. I have learned this year through my experience that if you take the time to research, buy what you need, nurture your crop, and have faith; you never know what can be accomplished even if you think you don’t have a green thumb. I thoroughly enjoyed teaching my children about nature and how things grow as well and I believe they too now have a greater appreciation for where food comes from.

Happy kids

root veggies source-123rf

About the Author

Melanie Bremner

Melanie Bremner

Melanie Bremner is a work at home mom of four who enjoys helping other stay at home folks find ways to make money from home, save more money and tackle every day parenting issues one step at a time. She invites you to stop on over at her blog and help yourself to a free report! http://momsassistingmoms.net

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January Tasks for Southern Garden Enthusiasts

JanuaryHappy New Year southern gardening enthusiasts!  It’s January 2013!

I’m excited to get this year started as it just feels like it’s going to be a great year!

I know it’s cold in some parts of the county but here in the Charleston, SC we’ve had the most gorgeous weather I can remember in January.

So…  just because it’s January doesn’t mean that there aren’t plenty of things to do for gardening enthusiasts in the south!  Winter in the south is almost always a sort of on again, off again, kind of thing.  At least it is here in Charleston where I live.

In most parts of the south, there are always at least a few sunny days in January that are good for getting outdoors and if you are like most southern gardeners you love spending those days doing a little work around the garden and around the yard in general.

January Tasks:

Fill your feeders.

suet feeder

Fill your feeders with high energy foods for your feathered friends.  Providing Suet and high quality seed in the winter will have the birds flocking to your yard!  My favorite is my  Songbird Essentials Squirrel Resistant Suet Palace pictured in the tree.  I love all the Songbird Essentials products.  Most of them are guaranteed for life!

As for the suet to fill the feeder with, while it’s true that there are many commercial varieties of suet are available on the market, I’ve got an easy recipe for making your own suet here.

Flowers

In the lower coastal and tropical south there are plenty of choices for flowers that you can plant now in areas that you can provide full sun.  A couple of my favorites are sweet peas and petunias but there are many more that will withstand the cooler weather temps if given enough sun.  In the tropical south, even impatiens, marigolds, and geraniums can generally be planted.

Camellias

Trees & Shrubs

My favorite winter flower actually comes from a shrub.  Camellias are affectionately known as “the roses of winter” and are the Alabama state flower.  They make fragrant and long lasting little arrangements for putting around  your home.  I put the flowers in short vases and put them everywhere.  The fragrance is heavenly!  As long as the ground isn’t frozen, January is the perfect time to plant these shrubs.  You can also get a head start in colder areas by planing them in containers and moving them to the ground when it thaws in the spring.  The same is true for Winter Honeysuckle.  Plant these shrubs near entryways and windows you like to open for fullest enjoyment.

As a general rule of thumb, any tree that can overwinter in your part of the south can also be planted at this time providing the ground isn’t frozen.

Order seeds & planting supplies now

You can start some leafy vegetables indoors as soon as you get your seeds!  Getting the jump on your seed order means you can get a jump on starting your seeds indoors, saving money, and enjoying your garden earlier.  Go ahead, order your seeds and any other supplies that you know you’ll need with this January coupon worth 15% off your order of $60 or more with code GARDEN1560 through 2/1 at Burpee.com!

Lawn & Soil

Now is the time to spread annual rye-grass if you want to keep a green lawn all winter long.  Looking out on a green lawn always makes the world seem a little brighter in a dreary month of the year.

Get your soil tested to see if it needs Lyme.  Visit your local Extension office for info on how to do this by mail.  Note: Never add Lime without testing soil first!

You can also stay on top of your soil and prepare for your spring vegetable garden by tilling and adding some organic matter to your soil to keep it loose and hold in moisture.  Do a little of this on dry days consistently over the winter months and your spring vegetable garden will be ready for planting those plants you started indoors.

Start a Journal

On days when it is too cold to get outside, that’s a great time to begin a garden journal.  A journal with information about the next 12 months will be invaluable in making  future gardening plans going forward.  There’s no better time than January to get this going!  Make notes about all your observations and especially those regarding weather conditions, what and when and how you planted, when things bloomed, what worked, what didn’t, and what gave you the most enjoyment.

Canning

By late spring you’ll be glad that you took the time now to do a little planning before time to start your canning.  Now is the time to take inventory of your canning supplies, purchase, replace or upgrade equipment, plan what you’ll can this year and gather new recipes organized by the quantities and qualities of what’s fresh and available month by month.  I use a beautiful canning book I found in a roadside market on a trip back from Hilton Head Island.  It’s titled “Putting up, A Year-Round Guide to Canning in the Southern tradition” by Stephen Palmer Dowdney.  It’s perfect for planning because it’s organized by eacj month with all the recipes for putting up what’s currently in season and available in abundance. I even got a signed copy!  It’s also available on Amazon if you are interested Putting Up: A Year-Round Guide to Canning in the Southern Tradition

Well, I’ll bet there is more to be done than I’ve mentioned but these are the tasks I’ve got on my mind this month and what I’ve been focusing on.

Wishing you a happy new year and a great month of gardening in January.

Leigha sig

 

 

P.S.  Don’t forget to subscribe to my gardening tips newsletter and get my best tips, fun projects, and great offers I find around the web.

 

 

 

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Arisaema flavum

Arisaema flavumSomething new for my garden this year!  I ordered Arisaema flavum today and I’m planting three of these along the path on the side of the house.  I’m really hoping this will grow well for me.  I’ve not grown them before and to be honest, they were a little more money than I usually like to spend on something new.
According to what I’ve read, Arisaema flavum is the only truly yellow Jack-in-the-Pulpit.  It is a rotund and bright colorful variety that blooms in late spring to early summer.
The flowers are yellow on the outside edges with maroon interiors.  In the fall, red-orange berries replace the flowers, which return every year.
Below are the details of this beauty:
#1 field-grown plants. Arisaema flavum.

Category:

Bulbs, Perennials

Zones: 5-9

Light: Partial Shade to Full Shade
Deer tend to avoid.
Height:Arisaema plant

under 6 in. (15 cm)
6-12 in. (15-30 cm)
12-18 in. (30-45 cm)

Spacing:
3-6 in. (7-15 cm)

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)
From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse
From seed; sow indoors before last frost
From seed; germinate in a damp paper towelArisaema stages
Seed Collecting:
Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing
Wear gloves to protect hands when handling seeds
Wish me luck.
Happy Gardening!


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Strawberries Gone Wild! Controlling Unwanted Strawberry Plants

I love this time of year!  Everyone is thinking about what’s in store this year for their gardens and landscaping.  Unfortunately, not everything growing in the gardens is wanted.  Let’s talk weeds and specifically what to do when your strawberries have gone wild or your unwanted strawberry plants are simply taking over your backyard.

Yesterday, a neighbor asked me if I knew how to get rid of the unwanted wild strawberries that are invading her backyard.  Every year, they have gotten worse and worse and now they are starting to grown in her lawn.  She has had it with them!

I told her that although pulling is the only non-chemical solution that I am sure of, some suggestions using vinegar can be found on this forum.  In addition, there is also a chemical option for controlling them that she could try.  You can spot treat these unwanted plants with a product such as Roundup.  These fatal vegetation killers will destroy the tops, roots and runners of these weeds, but be very careful not to get the chemicals on the surrounding grass or flowers.  It WILL kill those too!

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8 Spring Home Gardening Tips for Beginners

Here we go!  Spring has sprung and the blooming has already begun in Charleston.  I hate to admit it but I’m just a little behind in being prepared for it.  With a wedding in the family and plenty of out of town company being here over the last few weeks, lots of chores are calling out for my attention.  So today, armed with pen and paper, I sat down to make a list of what needs to be done and made a plan to carry it out.

Here’s my list of 8 spring gardening tips that need to be done around my garden over the next couple of weeks.  I thought it might be helpful to those of you who are just beginning to garden and have not yet established a routine to figure out what needs to be done in preparation of spring gardening.  There are plenty of others, however this is the list of what I need to do and beginners will appreciate the time savings of doing these things now as well.

Organize an area to keep everything as this will help you get everything ready and allow you to have an inventory of what you have and what you will need to invest in this year to make your work easier.  I also keep a wish list going for things that might not be in my budget this year but that I would like to have such as a new gas powered trimmer and a blower.  I’m really sick of the batteries always running down before I am finished trimming and using a  push broom!

1.  Prepare Gardening Tools

  • Get the lawnmower tuned up and the blades sharpened.
  • Clean and sharpen all tools.
  • Apply linseed oil to all wooden handles.
  • Replace weak or broken handles or purchase new ones.
  • Take an inventory of my tools and make a list of new tools I’d like to buy and old ones I need to replace.

2.   Cut Perennials

Cut perennial foliage to the ground, with a few exceptions.  Do NOT prune salvia, Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), creeping verbena (verbena Canadensis), or artermesia until they start showing growth on last year’s stems.  Then prune just above the emerging foliage.

Wait until sprigs of green growth appear on ornamental grasses, then cut back to the new growth. Prune butterfly bushes (Buddleia davidil) just as they begin to show new growth or when the last average frost date for your area has passed.  Butterfly lovers wanting a butterfly habitat see this.  If evergreen foliage of perennials such as Lenten rose (Helleborus orientalis) is tattered from winter’s wear, remove blemished foliage to the ground: fresh, new foliage will quickly return.  Trim the evergreen foliage of sedge (Carex sppl), liriope, and evergreen ferns.

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Planting Seeds – Reaping the Most from What You Sow

SeedsWhen you are purchasing seeds from a seed house or manufacturer, there is a risk that some of the seeds, although appearing healthy enough to produce a hardy plant, may in essence not contain enough power and vitality to grow into a strong fertile specimen.

If you save seeds from your own plants, you are able to choose carefully. There are a number of things you must consider when choosing the right seeds that will produce the best plants.

For example, if you were to save the seeds from an aster plant, what things would you look for before deciding? What blossoms should you go with? Remember though that even if a flower does have a fine blossom, it could still be from a weak, straggly plant. You want to look for a plant that is strong, vibrant and healthy. More often than not, what the parent plant looks like, will be how the new seeds will grow as well.

Look for a seed that is sturdy, strong, well shaped and symmetrical. Then if the blossoms are numerous and vibrant, this will be a good choice for a seed. If you find the time, you may want to visit a plant grower or farmer who has expertise in this field. Normally, he will tie a string or ribbon around the plants he is using for the seeds. Inspect the plant carefully, taking note of the points of which he based his decision upon.

In seed selection, choosing not only the largest but the fullest seed is one of the key points in choosing a viable seed that will produce the best plants. Under just the right conditions, these seeds will blossom into healthy strong plants producing more seeds in which you can use for the next batch you grow.

Each little plant must depend for its early growth on the nourishment stored up in the two halves of the seed. The larger the seed you choose, the more nourishment and food will be available for the little plant to feed on as it grows. Once the plants roots have grown to be able to supply food on its on for the rest of the growing plant, the seed must provide enough nourishment for the plants growth. Too small of a seed could result in a plant starving to death and wilting away. The name of the food this seed will provide is called the cotyledon. Most seeds have one or two cotyledons however some plants such as the pines, have several cotyledons.

Another thing to watch out for when buying seeds, is impurity. Seeds are sometimes mixed with other seeds so like them in appearance that it is impossible to detect which ones are which.  Any foreign matter that is mixed with the seeds can cause the seed to become contaminated and lose it’s vitality and ability to grow strong.

The third thing to look out for when choosing seeds, is the viability. We know that seeds which look to the eye to be all right still may not develop at all. Some of the reasons for this are that the seeds may have been picked before they were ripe or mature;  or they may have been frozen, or they may be too old.  Seeds retain their viability or germ developing power, a certain number of years and then are useless. Although, the viability limit varies for different seeds. Learning to harvest and grow your own seeds will enable you to choose only the best and most viable to grow.

The germination percentage of seeds is also a factor to consider when planting. Not only must you know the perfect type of ground to sow your seeds, you must also know how far apart to allow each seed before it will not have the space to grow, and at what times of the year are best for each plant.

You must be prepared that not every seed you plant will grow, even if you have taken all things into consideration. But as time goes by, you will soon find the seeds that have the most viability and strength to make it through and produce strong, healthy plants you can be proud of.

Happy Growing!

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Fighting Plant Enemies

Fighting your plants enemies is one of the most important tasks in maintaining a healthy garden. You have a wide assortment of devices and implements to choose from in this fight, but there a generally only two varieties:Fighting plant enemies - protecting your plants

1. Those that provide mechanical protection to the plants

2. Those used to apply insecticides and fungicides

Mechanical Protection

Mechanical devices are usually consist of a wooden box. They’re about eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight feet high, covered with glass, a protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible for you to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. For example, you can use them to get an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.

Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm include stiff tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil.

Chemical Protection

Chemical protection includes applying poison powders and liquids that fight plant enemies.

ou’ll need a powder gun for applying poison powders in your home garden. If you must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work, a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will work better for you, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time.

Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. A good hand-syringe may be used for operations on a very small scale. But as a general rule, it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution.

Whatever type you procure, get a brass machine, as it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumb very quickly to the corrosion caused by the strong poisons and chemicals you’ll be using.

Generally speaking, a combination of mechanical and chemical protection methods will keep your garden in the best health. As always, your local plants and conditions to find out which methods and combinations of methods will work best for you.

Happy Gardening!

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Birds and Blooms New Plants for 2010

I’m playing catch up and really trying to get my website cleaned up for spring so I’m a bit behind in my writing schedule.

In the meantime, I wanted to pass along an article from Birds and Bloom magazine titled “New Plants for 2010“.

EarlyBird Cardinal DayLilyZaharaStarlightThere is not a single one of them that I don’t just love!  My favorites tho, are the Earlybird Cardinal Daylily and the Zahara Starlight Rose Zinnia, both I believe will be perfect for my hummingbird/butterfly garden!

The good weather is back here in Charleston, SC and I don’t anticipate too many more cold days.  I got some seeds started indoors this morning and that really gets me excited that spring is almost here!

Happy Gardening!

P.S.   If you’d like to receive our weekly newsletter full of gardening articles, tips, and projects, sign up below.

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Winter Landscaping Shrubs. Suggestions for Flowering, Vividly Colored, and Berry Plants for Winter Beauty

holly in snowyellow twig dogwoodWhen winter arrives, the beauty of your garden doesn’t have to be locked away in cold storage.  You can keep your yard bright and interesting by adding a few winter garden shrubs with eye-catching seasonal appeal.

The first step is to tour your winter landscape.  No need to bundle up yet, we’re starting indoors.

Examine your yard through the windows you use the most during winter.  For example, I always start my day with a cup of coffee in my sunroom.  The view outside of those windows is important to me.

Now, bundle up and step outside.  Walk through the yard.  Look for spots with room to plant shrubs or for flower beds that can be expanded to add shrubs in spring.  Note the light and soil conditions of each area so you can match new plants to the growing conditions.

With the chosen spaces in mind, you are now ready to make a list of specific shrubs for your backyard.

Color

Color is a good place to start.  The holiday lights and decorations that adorn many homes during the holidays are clues that we all crave a little more brilliance in winter.  Planting a few colorful shrubs can fill that need.

Red Twig Dogwood, also known as Redosier Dogwood, is a longtime favorite.  It has unique red stems that make a nice backdrop to redtwig_dogwoodoverwintering perennials or an accent plant for evergreens.

Regular pruning keeps the color vibrant year round (though in spring and summer, the leaves disguise it).  Simply remove older brown stems at ground level in late winter.  This encourages new growth, which is the most vivid in color.

The Yellow Twig Dogwood variety Flaviramea, adds a different look to the garden.  Just a few of these yellow stemmed beauties add magnificent color to the otherwise dreary winter landscape.

Another winter garden shrub with colorful stems is Japanese Kerria.  It’s glossy bright green stems are sure to catch a second look.  The slender stems stand upright and provide a welcome contrast.

But it’s not just about color.  The texture of the bark can add interest, too.  Burning Bush, also known as Winged Euonymus, has stems with corky ridges.  It’s look is especially pretty after a snowfall.  However, gardeners in parts of the Northeast and Midwest, where this plant is invading native woodlands, should avoid using it.  Instead, consider its native counterpart, Eastern Wahoo.  Although it lacks the corky bark, it produces small pink and orange fruit.

The Oak Leaf Hydrangea has several attractive features for winter.  The coarse textured older stems are covered with peeling cinnamon- brown bark.  This, combined with dried flowers, creates cold weather charm.

Another way to increase appeal is with uniquely shaped shrubs.  Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick is the first to come to mind.  It’s curled and twisted stems, which become more apparent after the leaves have fallen, make this a nice focal point for a patio garden, mixed border or foundation planting.  Remove any straight stems that sprout from the roots beneath the graft.

Fruit and Berry Plantshollybranch.snow

One of the most common ways to create a bright spot amid the snow is with fruit bearing shrubs.  You’ll appreciate the color and the birds will appreciate the food.

Holly is the traditional vary for the holidays, and Holly trees and shrubs come in many Evergreen varieties that also produce colorful berries.

Southern gardeners have a wider selection of Evergreen types that work in warmer climates.  Northern gardeners need to look for heartier cultivars of the Meserve Hollyies, such as China Boy, China Girl, Blue boy, Blue girl, Blue Prince, and Blue Princess.  As the names imply, there are both male and female plants.  It is suggested that at least one male for every five females be planted to help guarantee fruit.

A heartier alternative is the Deciduous Holly, known as Winterberry.  The lack of leaves in winter is not a problem, since red fruit covers the upright stems.

Also, take a second look at the off-season potential of a longtime garden staple, the Rose.  Not only are the rose hips colorful, but you can also gather some of the hip covered stems or unique indoor arrangements.

large_beautyberryCloseThe colorful fruit of Beautyberry adds a seldom seen pinkish- purple hue to the winterscape.  For the best fruit display, prune regularly and avoid excess fertilizing.  When selecting this plant, look for the American Beautyberry, which puts on a good show of berries.  But if you like a challenge, search for the purple Beautybush (Callicarpa dichotoma).  It’s more difficult to find, but it’s graceful appearance and impressive fruit display will make the effort worthwhile.

The Flowering shrub

A hydrangea, a shade garden favorite, takes on new character in winter.  Both the Snowball and Panicle varieties produce flowers that dry on the plant.  These brown blooms and tiny capsule like fruit provide a nice contrast to the fine texture of nearby overwintering ornamental grasses or perennials.

But let’s not forget about flowers, and I don’t mean just for southern landscapes!  Most gardeners can enjoy the fall and winter blooms of Witch Hazel.  Common Witch Hazel unfurls fragrant strap- like flowers for about a month between October and December.

For those who like an early start to the growing season, plant Vernal Witch Hazel.  These long bloomers start flowering as early as January in the south, to late February or March in the north.  The blooms last for 3 to 4 weeks, providing a much needed lift to the spirit of anyone with cabin fever.

Evergreen’severgreen in snow

We can’t discuss winter shrubs without at least mentioning Evergreen Conifers.  They’ve long been the backbone of a winter garden, providing a green ray of hope in otherwise barren landscapes.

Although thousands of varieties provide virtually endless possibilities, there are a few basic pointers for selecting the right conifers for your yard.

Look for Dwarf Pines, Spruces or Juniper shrubs for hot sunny locations.  Arborvitae and False Cypress will add texture with their somewhat lacey appearances.  Hemlocks and Boxwood shrubs provide a bit of year- round greenery in sunny or shady locations.

Shrubs also form great backdrops to the other colorful and interesting shrubs we’ve discussed.  For a winter yard that really stands out, consider planting mixed borders of evergreens, deciduous shrubs and perennials.

Each will lend its own form of beauty to awaken your slumbering garden.

Enjoy your winter shrubbery!

P.S.  Nature Hills is offering all trees, bushes, and shrubs at 25% off and free shipping on orders of $50.00 or more!

Click Here to Order Early and Save!

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Blooming an Amaryllis

amaryllis-bulbsA cheerful amaryllis makes a perfect holiday gift and I was happy to receive one this holiday season! For those of you who may have received one and are not really sure how to go about getting it started, follow these instructions for blooming success.  It’s really so simple and these showy plants will brighten up any room they are placed in.  Do keep in mind however, that if you place them in bright direct sun, your blooms won’t last.

Here is how to pot and care for your amaryllis:

Choose a container with drainage holes that’s about 2 inches wider in diameter than your bulb and several inches deeper than it’s roots.  Add about an inch or so of loose potting mix to the container.

Place the bulb in the container and add potting mix around it, being careful not to damage the roots.  Leave the top third of the bulb exposed.

Moisten the soil and press it down gently to secure the bulb and eliminate air pockets.  Water and light will bring the bulbs from the dormant stage into the growth stage so put the amaryllis in a warm spot with indirect light.  Water lightly until the flower bud and leaves emerge.  Once this has happens, move to a cooler, lighter area and water regularly, keeping the soil moist but not soggy.  Keep the flowering blub away from bright light to extend flowering.

You can extend the length of the flowering time in two ways.  Traditionally, by staggering the plantings.  You can plant one bulb a week into a larger container and when the flowers start blooming in 6-8 weeks, they’ll start a new bloom every week or so for each bulb that you have planted.

Another, and I think more convenient way is to do all the planting at the same time but to use different varieties of bulbs.  With this method, you can plant all at once but the bulbs won’t  come into flower all at the same time even though planted together.  Different varieties bloom early, mid-season and late season taking various amounts of time to bloom.  See list below for some ideas.

Early Blooming Varieties

These bloom 5-8 weeks after planting

Single flowering:
Orange Sovereign, Lucky Strike, Apple Blossom, Minerva, Roma, Vera, Mont Blanc.

Double Flowering:
Lady Jane, Mary Lou, Aphrodite, Pasadena

Miniatures
Donau, Scarlet Baby, Giraffe, Amoretta, Pamela

Mid-Season Blooming Varieties

These bloom 7-10 weeks after planting

Singles:
Red Lion, Lemon Lime, Liberty, Royal Velvet, Hercules, Wonderland, Rilona, Picotee

Double Flowering:
Double Record, Unique, Blossom Peacock, White Peacock

Cybister Varieties
Emerald, Ruby Meyer

Miniatures
Papillio

Trumpet
Pink Floyd

Late Season Blooming Varieties

These bloom 9-12 weeks after planting.

Singles
Las Vegas, Clown, Piquant, Toronto, Vlammenspel, Happy Memory, Charisma

Double Flowering
Promise, Dancing Queen, Flaming Peacock, Andes

Cybister
La Paz, Chico

Trumpet
Amputo, Misty

You can mix and match.  Planting the late bloomers in late winter will give you your first spring blooms.

Happy Blooming!

P.S. Receive a free Paperwhites gift bag project http://gardendecorativeitems.com/blog/paperwhites-project

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